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Much Ado About Eating

(Mistura food festival, Lima 2011.)   As a foreigner in Peru, a singular predictable question from locals tends to dominate the casual tête-à-têtes of my everyday encounters: how do you like our food? Never having been much of a foodie, this was a lot for me to take in at first.  Every time I entered [...]

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Lima Sky

Weathering Lima, Come Cloud or Shine

As winter kicks into high gear here on the other side of the equator, my kitty has found a new best friend: the heater.  Though Lima is the second most populated desert city to Cairo, the coastline humidity can lace the air with a bitter chill, tickle the throat into a cold or even speckle [...]

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Peru couture

Peru Couture

Keeping up two languages isn’t easy.  Coexisting with Spanish in particular has a way of making me say things like “elaborate” instead of simply “write” or recite amusing though non-existent clichés.  So in attempts to avoid those google translation moments, I’ve taken to podcasts to keep the juices flowing in my mother tongue while staying [...]

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Team Peru

Giving Fútbol Its Due

With some exceptions, Americans generally have the same beef with soccer: “nothing happens.”  Despite having played the sport for some six years, I too was one of the naysayers.  Like my father, I joined the ranks of college football fans.  But only college. College football was where all the excitement happened.  As non-professionals, players are [...]

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Crazy combi

Habla, vas? A Glimpse at Lima Transport

(Internet game and facebook app based on “crazy” Lima combis.)   With over eight million inhabitants and no subway system, Lima transit has become an unequivocal symbol of the city’s organized chaos.  The jarring medley of horns and police whistles, topped with incessant weaving and nail-biting close calls, sometimes makes city streets feel a little [...]

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Fitting in as an Extranjero

It’s easy to recite the well-worn cliché “home is where the heart is.”  And perhaps for most it’s really that simple.  But when you end up living in a foreign country – especially for an indefinite period of time – the concept of “home” becomes a little like the white stuff in an oreo cookie.  [...]

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Lessons on Personal Space: 1

For Americans, personal space is no joking matter.  Raised on strict instructions to keep our hands to ourselves and slogans like “no means no,” the 1.5 foot perimeter surrounding each person’s body is nothing short of sacred. Obviously there are exceptions: border patrol is usually waived during the pinch of rush hour traffic, the shoulder-rubbing [...]

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Ollanta Humala

Biting the Electoral Bullet

The other day, a well-known Peruvian news commentator, Rosa María Palacios, said, “If I would have gone to sleep in January and woken up today, I would’ve said, ‘no, this is a nightmare, I’m in the wrong country.’” In the United States, presidential elections follow an almost cookie cutter predictability – the Democratic and Republican [...]

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More Confused than a Peruvian on Election Day

Presidential elections in any country leave much to be desired.  Peru, however, seems to have a particular penchant for wedging itself between a rock and hard place.  To be fair, the two-round voting system is a bit of a crapshoot.  In polls, candidates go up and down like juggled fruit up until Election Day and [...]

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Coping with Bad Customer Service

Seated at a mid-priced restaurant with two other gringas, our early evening banter came to a screeching halt when our request for bottled water was met with an unflinching ‘no’ from our waiter – they had none.  In a country where drinking from the tap can land you in the hospital, bottled water is the [...]

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    • Fitting in as an Extranjero
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